Excessive Pigmentation
Understanding and Treating Hyperpigmentation
Do you suffer from hyperpigmention?
Those dark spots and patches can be very difficult and frustrating to treat. It is essential to understand the process of hyperpigmentation to successfully treat it.
Why do we get Hyperpigmentation?
In our skin we have pigment producing cells called melanocytes. These cells, when stimulated, produce melanin. In excess, melanin creates spots and patches of pigment known as hyperpigmentation.
The process of hyperpigmentation is very complex, but for our purposes, a simplified version is all we need.
The melanocyte is stimulated. This can happen from UV rays from the sun, irritation from a breakout, hormones from pregnancy or birth control pills or free radicals causing damage to your skin. These signals tell the melanocyte to make melanin.
A chemical process in the pigment producing melanocyte has to happen for the cell to create melanin. Tyrosinase must be activated. Once activated, melanin is made.
Melanin is then transferred to the skin cells, making your spot or patch.
Prevention is KEY
Prevent the signal to make melanin by using sunscreen, antioxidants and hydrocortisone when pimples become inflamed.
Block the activation of tyrosinase. There are a many tyrosinase blockers in skincare including hydroquinone, retinoids, vitamin C, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, kojic acid, transexamic acid, cysteamine, phenyethyl resorcinol, phytic acid, plankton extract and many others.
Block the transfer of melanin to the skin cell with niacinamide.
4. Increase cellular turnover with glycolic acid, salicylic acid, retinoids and chemical peels to rid your skin of skin cells that have excess pigment.
Treat at EVERY step in the process for the best result!
PREVENT
Total Defense and Repair comes in tinted and untinted versions. It is a chemical sunscreen with an antioxidant complex that blocks infrared radiation, which is helpful for those of us with rosacea.
Essential Defense also comes in tinted and untinted versions. This is a very light mineral sunscreen.
BLOCK
SkinMedica EVEN & CORRECT This twice a day product not only has antioxidants that help PREVENT melanocyte stimulation it has multiple tyrosinase BLOCKERS to prevent pigment from forming and has Niacinamide to prevent the transfer of pigment to the skin cells.
TURNOVER
AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser is my personal favorite. It is a gentle but extremely effective cleanser with 4 different alpha hydroxy acids, salicyclic acid and jojoba beads for exfoliation.
Retinol Complex is an essential component to everyone’s skincare regimen. It stimulates collagen production, increases skin turnover and assists with blocking tyrosinase. It comes in 3 different strengths, .25, .50 and 1.0. I always suggest starting with the .25 strength twice a week, and slowly building to every night use as tolerated. Once you are able to use every night, you can increase strengths.
VI Chemical Peels
Vitality Institute peels are medium depth peels designed to remove dead skin cells to reveal the smoother, brighter skin beneath. When done in a series, they can be used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and fine lines. You can also do them periodically for a refreshed appearance to the skin.
Hyperpigmentation is a very difficult problem that requires CONSISTENT treatment at EVERY LEVEL of the process for success. Your melanocytes are always functioning. You can spend a lot of time preventing and fading these spots to just have them all come back with a day unprotected in the sun. It is a frustrating problem. You should think about hyperpigmentation is a chronic condition that unfortunately will always need your attention.
